Happy New Year!! from George Town, Great Exumas in the Bahamas. Yep, we finally made it across the Gulf Stream, although we didn't make port where we expected to.

Some of you may know that the Gulf Stream is a natural phenomena - a current that flows north from somewhere around Cuba up the east coast of the US and then east ending somewhere near the UK. They reckon that it has a 2.5 knot current. Well, we beg to differ. We reckon it's closer to 4.5 knots.

We left West Palm Beach just before midnight, with what we were told (by the NOAA) was a good break in the weather. We planned to head directly east to West End on Grand Bahama Island - only about 55 miles. Ha! break in the weather - my eye! Lets just say We had an unpleasant crossing. And we've found out since that others also took the same 'weather window' with similar results. It was very choppy - steep and sharp. Wind on the nose all the way. The current took us north off course about 25 miles. At one stage I thought we were heading directly for Bermuda. We tried tacking across the Gulf Stream, only to sail backwards. No amount of engine power we possessed could get us back on course - so we went with the flow.

They also reckon that the eastern side of the Gulf Stream ends well before you reach the Bahamas. Not on the day we sailed! We just kept heading north east right up until we reached Little Bahama Bank. The contrast in comfort was acute and immediate the moment we sailed onto the bank. Flat calm and the colour of the water was truly mind blowing - so clean and clear you could see the bottom. I've tried to capture it in photos - but they're not as vivid as the real thing. We were about 30 miles away from land, it was getting dark and both of us were exhausted from the crossing.

We were nervous about sailing on the bank in darkness as you have to watch out for bommies and such (shallow coral formations and rock that can do some indecent damage to your hull). The charts we had were the most up-to-date and comprehensive we've had. Still, Marno didn't want to rely on any one form of navigation. So, it was after sunset that we dropped the hook in about 20 feet of water - in no sight of land. We slept very, very soundly.

The next morning was bright and clear. We noticed that the temperature difference between the US and the Bahamas is huge. We were back in T-shirts and shorts for the most part. It took us a couple of days blissful sailing before we reached an inhabited island to clear into Customs. We really enjoyed the absolute peace - noone - nothing but us for days.

We knew we were getting closer to inhabited land when we passed the mail boat and started to hear the banter over the VHF. Everyone here travels by boat and communicates by VHF - even in the towns.

After several days of sailing we reached Marsh Harbour on Great Abaco Island and cleared into Customs. Several yanks told us that the customs guys weren't very friendly. But you know what Marno's like. Both the Customs and Immigration guys boarded the boat (Bahamian nationals), I stayed down below and listened to the 3 of them talk like long lost brothers. Marno had one of them show him a couple of his fishing secrets and the other just about offered to tour us personally around the island. They must have talked for over an hour before they reluctantly left.

Anyway, with that out of the way we could finally go ashore. The Bahamas are delightfully 3rd world but with a 1st world price tag for everything. The yanks continually complain about the price of fuel. I reckon the US have the cheapest fuel in the world.

We spent Christmas with our friends on Bumble Bee - a catamaran in Hope Town - another island several miles from Marsh Harbour. From there we headed south and did an overnighter from the Abacos Islands south to the Exumas. We arrived in Allens Cay (pronounced key) famous for its free roaming iguanas - of which Marno had great fun with. They were so obviously used to being hand fed that they weren't shy and loped right up to us. They're similar to water dragons, but some were quite a bit bigger than any water dragon I've seen.

We then made our way to Shroud Cay where the island had several shallow dingy routes through the mangroves. So we spent some time exploring. It's a national park in this area. You could tell as the fish life was abundant and not as skittish. We had a mackeral or maybe a barracuda swim to the side of our boat and just wait and watch. I guess it was used to getting fed, so we fed it some old meat - a whole turkey leg that was swallowed whole. Marno found this quite hilarious and it had him in fits of giggles.

Our next stop was Galliot Cay where we made new cruising friends and met them again in George Town. George Town is really set up for those who want a resort holiday, but live on their boat. There are all sorts of activities going on everywhere all the time. Volley ball, board games, bon fires, cook outs, talent shows, all manner of meetings including beach church. Lots of walking tracks, and beaches to explore, and of course snorkling.

We've anchored at the Red Shanks Yacht and Lawn Tennis Club. Of course, there is no club house or tennis court, only a small beach on which the boaties enjoy beer o'clock a couple of times a week.Some times we're ankle deep in water as the tide is up, but it's always a good time. One of them brings his piano accordian and serenades everyone during the evening. It's a lot of fun. We're anchored in a beautiful area with several blue holes. I'm yet to find out more about these but some are like underwater caves. We've seen rays jumping out of the water around us and turtles galore.

Laurelle, my sister, and her eldest daughter, Jamii, arrive in 8 days to spend a couple of weeks with us. We're soooo looking forward to it and are sure they'll have a great time with us in George Town before we start heading for the Dominican Republic in February.

Hope you all had fabulous New Year celebrations and enjoying yourselves. Have one for us.