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Here we are on a beach in Luperon, Dominican Republic, cleaning the bottom
of the dinghy in the last preparation stages for our Atlantic crossing. We
have had such a fabulous time here! I still have to pinch myself sometimes
that it's not all just a beautiful dream. It's easy to understand why so
many cruisers have stopped here, bought land and settled. The scenery is
breathtaking - some of it more jungle than rainforest. The mornings are
bright and warm, the evenings cool and calm. Sometimes it has been so still
the water mirrors every star. At dusk we watch formations of egrets glide
silently across the bay to nest in the mangroves.
We wish we had more time - and more money - to spend here, but our finances
are currently screaming at us to get back to work. It's our hope that we can
come back through this area in a few years on our way back to Australia.
The Dominicans are poor, happy, friendly, exquisitely beautiful, fiercly
proud of their attire and cleanliness, bath at least twice a day, and love
to give hugs and kisses. They are also fond of very, very loud music that
blares from huge speakers lugged on trucks through town - at all hours.
Sometimes at night we see dancing in the streets and in the public squares.
Never thought it would happen, but Marno actually danced with me - the
Merengue even - which one young local was more than pleased to teach us.
Every year on 27 February the huge national Carnival is held to celebrate
DR's freedom from Haiti. The DR is very much a Catholic nation, but their
Carnival, apart from a great excuse to have a good time, is an eye opener
and depicts the tyrany and Voodoo during Haiti's reign - all of which the
Dominicans hate - with a passion. Even today there is still zealous hatred
and bloodshed between the two countries. The biggest and most artist
Carnival is held in La Vega, which we were fortunate enough to watch. I have
a few photos to show you. The music was so loud we were partially deaf by
the end of the day. The crowds were almost overwhelming and we were relieved
to get free of the crush. Many of the young boys carry pom-poms with which
they wack the backsides of unsuspecting spectators. Apparently it supposed
to beat the devil out of you. They told us it wouldn't hurt, but I came back
with a few bruises. It was a fantastic day and a real eye opener to another
culture and its history.
Jeanne, you'd be interested in the cooking class I attended where I learned
to cook the main Dominicana dish - chicken, rice and beans in special
seasonings and sauces. It was quite a feast, took most of the day, but I've
never attended anything quite like it. The stove was jury-rigged from a
wheel rim with charcoal and a couple of rods brazed over the top for the pot
to sit on. We were surrounded by donkies, chooks and goats. It was a real
hoot.
We've made some wonderful friends here. Had them out to the boat, gone
sailing with them and they've taken us up the mountains and around Puerto
Plata and Santiago.
The roads and transportation here are something else! No helmets required
for motorcycles and we've opted to be driven rather than to drive - it's
truly wild and looks like every person for themselves. Red lights and stop
signs (when there are any) are merely suggestions. More often than not we
see mules and burrows being ridden and sometimes this slows up the traffic.
But you won't see any accidents, impatient drivers or road rage - we haven't
at least. Public transport in Luperon is a 'Gwa Gwa'. Basically an old beat
up minivan or sedan that can be packed with people like sardines, but alot
of fun. One time we were in a gwa gwa similar to an old Volvo. There were 5
adults squashed across the back seat and 4 people in the front. It was
interesting watching how the driver managed to manoeuvre while having to
share his seat and half hang out the window. Of course, stopping for cattle
or goats is all part of the fun.
We're about to organise our dispachio - bribing the Commandante with US$20
is something we can't get out of, but clearing into Customs was fun. The
Commandante arrived on our boat bringing with him a translator. We'd had a
heads up from other cruisers that he liked 'gifts'. We wondered if this was
misunderstood as many cultures like to give gifts. So we prepared a gift
before his arrival - put alot of thought into it as we wanted to give him
something particular to Australia.
So, as the Commandante finished looking at our papers and before he could
ask, we presented him with our gift - a small jar of Vegemite. We explained
that every home in Australia had this stuff. He seemed quite pleased with
the gift and said he would return the favour. Unfortunately we never saw
this Commandante again - he was replaced shortly after. Some of our American
friends speculated that the Vegemite killed him. In any case, word quickly
got around the harbour of our 'gift' and many have since followed suit -
giving gifts rather than cash, which seems to be appreciated. We've since
learned that there have been 6 Commandantes with in the last 12 months.
Apparently they pay off the General for the job.
Anyway, final provisioning has been done and we're about to finish off the
last few jobs before we leave. We're planning a straight run from here to
the UK - without any stops unless we need to shelter from bad weather. We've
been psyching ourselves up for it, listening to the weather and are feeling
ready. I'm a little nervious - which I'm told is a good thing. It will be
about a 30 day sail.
Our next email should be coming to you from somewhere in the UK. Until then,
be good or as Marno would say, be good at it.
   
   
   
   
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