France Holiday March 2009

Another land lubber trip, but what a great time we had with Andy and Charmay in France. Good food, great wine, fabulous company.

We arrived on Sunday afternoon, 1^st March, a greyish sort of a day, but warmer than the UK. Andy and Charmay met us at the airport to take us back to the renovated old barn house in Ginestas. On the way, we saw the sites of Montpellier and spied the Mediterranean for the first time. We'll never do it by boat, but it was nice to see it.

Monday morning was an early rise and a wander up to the Boulangerie for freshly baked bread and croissants, which became a morning ritual.

Following a leisurely breakfast, we jumped in the car and made our way to the amazing village of Minerve. It's a medieval village perched on a small plateau surrounded by deep gorges formed by the rivers Cesse and Brian. It is also the centre of some dark and bloody history during the early 13^th Century where a large chunk of the population in southern France was wiped out. There is discussion that the population has still not recovered from the massacre.

Entering the village for me was like entering another time and place. It sparked the imagination, knights of the templar, burnings at the stake, dark tales of the fantastic kind, almost like entering the scene of a Brothers' Grimm set. It has been voted as one of the most beautiful villages in France. I wouldn't go that far, but I would definitely vote for it as one of the most fascinating. It is again, history you can touch. The same buildings and cobbled alleyways that were once frequented by the Cathar monks, knights, and devastated by siege. Little is left of the fortress that stands on the highest part of the plateau which was decimated in 1210 during the massacre inflicted by Simon de Montfort during the crusades against the Cathars, a religious sect.

We enjoyed good French coffee in one of the little cafes overlooking a gorge. The scenery is stunning. Across the ravine on the other side stands an old Trebuchet recreated to mark the siege.

Tuesday we enjoyed a drive through the Pyrenees, into Spain. Spain is a poorer country that France, and it is noticeable immediately; less maintained buildings, roads and landscaping.

Our destination south was Roses and on the way we stopped at Figueres and a great pottery place where they had some wonderful readapted ceramics depicting Picasso's art.

Roses is a cute little seaside town set down between the rocky cliffs. It was also the beginning of our return trip, over the mountain pass to Cadaques, the place where Salvadore Dali discovered modern painting. Here we stopped for Tapas at a little seaside cafe, a quick walk through the village streets and an accidental, but enjoyable drive circumnavigating the town.

From Cadaques we took the winding coast road. Stunning coastline, and fascinating hillsides that had at one time all been cultivated, many of the terraces remaining. Indeed, I would love to know more about the history of the terracing. There was so much of it – miles and miles of it all the way to the border, decades, perhaps centuries, of hand labour, stone on stone, benched to cultivate olive trees and grape vines. Much of it seems to be in disrepair now, although some of it is still in use.

Onward, our next stop was at the boarder with, again, stunning views of the Mediterranean and coast line and then on through to Port Bou, a pretty fishing village, with an interesting mix of French and Spanish architecture.

Our last stop was Port Vendres for afternoon tea, where Andy and Charmay will make a point of going back for hot chocolate and marmalade. We enjoyed a stroll along the quay, surveying the boats moored in the bay.

Throughout the trip we found ourselves looking for good anchorages. Any of them would be lovely and inviting. Port Bou would possibly provide the best protection, particularly behind the sea wall.

Wednesday was a lazy day, walking through the town of Ginestas, and enjoying the local red, white and rose wine at the Cave. It opens on Wednesdays and Saturdays for an hour at midday. The locals bring their 5 litre plastic flasks (bidon) which are filled by a bowser direct from the vat. Taste testings were definitely in order. Later we fed the ducks at Le Somail, and took a short walk along one of Frances many canals.

Thursday we enjoyed a day at Narbonne markets. A delight for the senses. I got excited by the fabric and culinary stalls while Marno dug into the olive and pickled garlic barrels and snapped up some other French sweet delights.

Friday was our departure day, but we had enough time in the morning to stop at an the Olive factory. Again taste testing and purchasing olive oil soap.

We loved the land lubber tour, but the sight of the Mediterranean and our journey back to the UK made us heartsick for the cruising life. Only to be accentuated on Sunday in the wonderful company of Maz and Ian, Charmay and Andy and Marno Snr, all boaties in their time. We look forward to setting sail for the Canaries in September/October for more boating adventures.